Blackout Blinds: The Ultimate Light-Blocking Solution

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As blockout blinds get wider there will be some deflection or slight sag in the head tube (that spans between brackets) from which the blockout blind fabric hangs. This deflection is caused by gravity over these wider spans. The deflection can then cause slight 'vee-ing' or 'sagging' in the fabric which presents itself as a wrinkle or V shape, usually down the centre of the fabric. It's often very subtle; some people notice it, many don't. Different fabrics or colours make this more noticeable or not. Ceiling down-lights nearby really highlight any 'vee-ing', if present. Lighter coloured fabrics tend to show 'veeing' more than darker colours in my experience. This effect can be more pronounced with 'softer' fabrics. Lighter weight fabrics are less prone to 'vee-ing' however if circumstances lead toward 'vee-ing' then it may be more noticeable in lighter weight fabrics than heavier fabrics. The bigger the blockout blinds are the more obvious this effect can be. 'Vee-ing' applies to all roller blind types, not just blockout blinds. When I say 'wider' I start to advise clients about the possibility of 'vee-ing' around the 2.5m wide mark and it's usually more common when it's those greater widths coupled with a full drop (1.8m and greater). Our manufacturing specifications introduce a heavier duty, reinforced head tube for blockout blinds over 2m, to minimise this effect. Smaller blockout blinds also have superior head tube extrusions; this is one area many companies cut corners to deliver cheap blinds. As you can see there is no exact science to this phenomenon; if you feel it is going to be an aesthetic issue for you I'd suggest splitting 'wider' window/door spaces into two blockout blinds where possible or practical. 'Vee-ing' is a characteristic of wider blockout blinds and is not considered a manufacturing fault or fabric flaw. It is impossible to hang blockout blind fabric this large, completely flat.

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It is important to familiarise yourself with these key roller blind characteristics. So you have a full understanding of the product, and so you are aware of what can occur with roller blinds. These characteristics are present across the industry. While a poor manufacturer can amplify these effects, no one is free from them all entirely. Blinds Online use a reputable manufacturer that focuses solely on the production of roller blinds; one which is well renowned, even among competing manufacturers, within the blind industry. We go to great lengths to lessen these effects where possible. In short, it isn’t possible to make fabric hang entirely flat; and in many instances fabric has a life of its own beyond our control. FABRIC VEE’ING   As roller blinds get wider there will be some deflection (slight sag) in the head tube (this spans between the brackets) from which the roller blind fabric hangs. This deflection is caused by gravity. That deflection can then cause slight 'vee-ing' or 'sagging' in the fabric which presents itself as a wrinkle or V-shape, usually down the centre of the fabric. 'Vee-ing' is a characteristic of wider roller blinds. This can usually be expected on blinds over 2.5m wide, and usually when drops of 2m are involved. The bigger the blind, the more obvious this effect will be. Minor undulations, slight creasing or wrinkling are normal and are not considered a fabric or manufacturing fault. It is impossible to hang roller blind fabric completely flat. I’d encourage you to also read FAQ: ‘Are there any potential concerns to be aware of with wider blackout blinds?’ for a further understanding of this and suggestions to consider when approaching wider window and door openings with respect to vee-ing. FABRIC PUCKERING Fabric ‘puckering’ can occur above the bottom-rail. Puckering are wrinkles in the fabric that appears at the point where the fabric and the bottom rail meet. The standard method of attaching an aluminium base rail to a flat piece of fabric involves attaching a 10 or 15mm plastic spline that has a strong adhesive strip stuck to it. This is then pressed onto the edge of the fabric skin. Staples are fixed through the spline and fabric at intervals of around 250–300mm. The fabric is then folded 180 degrees around the spline and slid into a slot in the aluminium profile so that it sits snug and cannot fall off or be pulled off with force. Although puckering is not always present on blinds there is no way of knowing from one batch of fabric to another if blind skins will pucker, or not. Heat, humidity and other room conditions can contribute toward possible fabric bowing and puckering. Fabric manufacturers have no way of knowing when puckering will occur, however it is a well known and frustratingly intermittent issue world-wide. Rollease Acmeda, a leading blind parts manufacturer, have spent significant amounts, testing and developing adhesives and alternative methods of attachment to overcome this problem but have come to the current conclusion that there is no full and final fix to eliminating puckering. What we have found is that fabric will move around with temperature fluctuations and that the daytime heat from the sun tends to relax the fabric and can see the puckering reduce or disappear to only reappear at night. If this is likely an issue for you, we can supply a sewn-in bottom rail in place of an aluminium bottom-rail which can omit the puckering issue altogether. The extra cost of sewn-in bottom-rails is $20+gst per metre (ie: all the widths of your blinds requiring sewn-in bottom rails, totalled). There is also another bottom-rail system worth considering, which is known to greatly reduce the risk of puckering; the ‘Large Teardrop’ bottom-rail sees the fabric wrapped around the bottom-rail instead of a spline and staple approach. The manufacturer of this system when pressed on whether it will 100% eliminate puckering states: ‘it tends to eliminate the issue of puckering’. The extra cost of the ‘Large Teardrop’ bottom-rail system is $TBC+gst per metre (ie: all the widths of your blinds requiring the ‘large teardrop’ bottom-rails, totalled). Please ask me for photos of these two alternate bottom-rail systems if considering. Puckering is not regarded as a manufacturing or fabric fault. Puckering is considered normal and does not constitute a failure in either workmanship or materials. Slight wrinkling, puckering or bowing is inherent in textile products across the board and should be considered normal, acceptable quality. LIGHT GAPS All roller blinds which are fitted inside a reveal (inside mounted) will have light gaps down the sides of the roller blind fabric (even when a blackout fabric is used). This is because the overall width of the blind including its brackets and componentry is always wider than the fabric width itself. Our light gaps are some of the narrowest in the industry; measuring approximately 17mm on the control chain side of the blind and 15mm on the idle end (opposite side) of the roller blind. If light gaps on the sides of your blackout blinds are going to be an issue for you, you may want to consider ’outside mounting’ and back rolling them. Please also read FAQ: 'How do I further reduce the light gaps on the side of my inside mounted blackout blinds?' for another solution worth considering. BLIND TRACKING If for any reason the fabric of your roller blind starts to roll up unevenly, tracking to either the left or right, and is in danger of contacting the brackets or control mechanism, the following action should be taken. Start by rolling the blind right down to its lower limit, take hold of the bottom rail and guide the fabric back up in the line it should take, while operating the control chain. Depending on the size, position, and drop of the blind this operation may be best performed as a duo. Perhaps as a mother and daughter bonding exercise. For best results perform this action on a regular basis over some time, to allow the fabric to make and retain its new memory. All roller blinds leave our factory having been jigged and tested and are operating correctly, as they should. While sometimes roller blinds and their fabric’s weave have a life of their own and may be the cause, more often it’s actually operator error that starts blinds down the blind ‘tracking’ route. Roller blind control chains shouldn’t be yanked, pulled too hard, or too fast. Nor should control chains be pulled on weird and outrageous angles either. ‘Pre-load’ the chain slightly (take up any slack) and with long, steady, fluid action pull the control chain down and in-line with where the control chain hangs (vertically) or up to a 30º angle or so out from vertical but still in line with the control mechanism’s wheel. Blind tracking is not considered a fabric or manufacturing fault and sometimes roller blinds just need a little on site love and understanding. FABRIC CUPPING Fabric ’curling’ or ’cupping’ down the edges of your roller blind’s fabric can be caused by fabric weave, where in a manufacturers roll the fabric piece is cut, temperature variations, etc, etc. In the majority of cases the curling may gradually diminish over time however it may not disappear altogether in other cases. Cupping can seem more prevalent in narrower roller blinds (however it is not exclusive to narrower roller blinds by any means) because the edges are closer to each other visually. Fabric cupping or curling is not considered a fabric or manufacturing fault. LINKING BLINDS IN A ROW WITH ONE CONTROL Sometimes to span wider openings (usually sliding or bifold doors) it’s necessary, or preferable, to butt (link) multiple roller blinds together, side by side. We use an innovative ’intermediate bracket’ system when butting blinds. Good reasons for using one intermediate bracket rather than butting two standard brackets back to back, is that it reduces the light gap considerably between roller blinds, the finish looks so much better (less clunky and clumsy looking) than having two brackets, and potentially reduces the number of control chains needed (depending on how many linked roller blinds there are altogether). With this system you may have two butting blinds controlled off one control chain, which both raise and lower together, or you may have two butting blinds with a control chain either side, which operate blinds independently of each other. You can in fact even have three blinds butting and controlled off one control chain however from my experience I recommend sticking to controlling two blinds maximum off of one control chain. Now that I’ve describing how cool this intermediate bracket system is, here’s the compromise in some instances. The linking mechanism between each blind gives a slight amount of independent movement and this can present a slight difference in the horizontal line of the roller blinds’ bottom-rails. Usually two blinds of the same size with one intermediate bracket line up perfectly or may have a 1mm difference. Two blinds that are of different widths, but have the same drop, with one intermediate bracket may have a difference of 2 to 3mm when trying to line their bottom-rails up. Three linked blinds the same size with two link brackets will most likely not line up well, horizontally, with up to a 5mm difference. This is largely why I don’t recommend controlling 3 roller blinds off of one control chain. We also do not recommend linking roller blinds of more than 20% difference to each other, in terms of width. In short, when linking roller blinds in this way it is not always possible to have your bottom-rails line up perfectly. Not everyone notices these alignment differences however I feel it my duty to make you aware of these things. Alignment differences in bottom-rails are normal and is not considered a parts, manufacturing, or installation fault. FABRIC MEMORY Roller blinds have fabric rolled tight around an aluminium tube and generally have an extruded aluminium bottom-rail at the bottom. They are packaged in such a way so they can be transported safely. Roller blinds retain a fabric memory for a period of time depending on the type of fabric. The bottom-rail can leave a line near the bottom of the fabric where it has pressed up against it, in its packaging, during transit. This line may leave additional memory lines for several revolutions up the fabric. These memory lines should drop out over a period of time. This is totally normal and not considered a fabric or manufacturing fault. Also, when the roller blind is installed and left in an open position; the fabric hangs over the top of the top tube and the fabric may retain some curve memory for a time until you lower the roller blind and gravity straightens it out again. Different fabrics behave in different ways; fabric memory is totally normal and not considered a fabric or manufacturing fault. Blind fabrics are flexible by nature and generally hard wearing but if a blind sits on a sharp item during transit but has not punctured a hole through the fabric this indentation should also drop out in time. DOWNLIGHTS If your home has down-lights near roller blinds with any sort of vee-ing, cupping, puckering, or memory lines, these characteristics can go from unnoticeable to the eye, to quite apparent, within the flick of a switch. IMPERFECTIONS IN FABRICS While New Zealand doesn’t actually have any formal blind manufacturers guidelines, we can look to Australia and take cues off their much larger blind industry and associated standards and guidelines when evaluating imperfections, marks, and dots in supplied roller blind fabrics. The BMAA (Blind Manufacturers’ Association of Australia) Industry Guidelines for Faults state that: • If an imperfection is visible with the naked eye in natural daylight at a distance of 1.2 metres, it is not acceptable. • If an imperfection is not visible with the naked eye in natural daylight at a distance of 1.2 metres it is acceptable. NB: The ‘characteristics of roller blinds’, as mentioned above, are not considered imperfections. Faults as described here relate to ‘imperfections, marks, or dots, in the fabric itself.

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All blockout blind fabrics we offer are sourced from reputable fabric suppliers with NZ based support (TEXSTYLE, SHAW, UNILINE and LOUVOLITE). It's really important to know where your fabric is coming from and that it has the support and experience of a supplier that knows what they are doing. Don't get caught with fabrics that fade or break down in the short term. All fabrics we offer have been tested to industry standards and proven to outlast generic rip-offs. There are no real quality differences between the blockout fabrics we offer in terms of longevity. The cost differences between blockout blind fabrics come down to the usual factors: the volume manufactured, fabric supplier size, scale and costs, weave complexity and design, eco practices, certifications, and the demand for certain fabric ranges. All our blockout blinds also use genuine ACMEDA componentry. The different blockout blind fabric ranges we offer are grouped together in terms of cost, below: DAWN, DUO BLOCK, FOCUS, KEW & ONE BLOCK: Priced very similar to each other and the most economical. These are all plain block colours. Dawn, Focus, and One Block are priced the same; Duo Block and Kew are about 10% more. BALMORAL, BELICE, ICON, JERSEY, KARMA, METROSHADE, SANCTUARY & VIVID BLOCK: More mid range priced blockout blind fabrics. There's a mix of plain block colours and fabrics with pattern and texture, so best browse through the fabric selector to view these. These 8 ranges are all similarly priced. Balmoral, Jersey, and Vivid Block are about 5% more than the other mid range fabrics. CHATSWORTH, GALA, LE REVE, LINESQUE, MANTRA, PALM BEACH, SKYE, TUSK, & URBAN SHADE: These are getting nearer the higher end price wise with some really striking fabrics that will make a real statement in your home. Le Reve, Linesque, Mantra, and Skye are priced the same as each other. Palm Beach is about 5% more. Chatsworth and Gala are about 10% more, with Urban Shade at 20% more. There are plain subtle textures as well as bolder patterns and design in this price group. See the full fabric selector to view individual fabric ranges. And here's the full BLOCKOUT BLINDS FABRIC SELECTOR.

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Here's a potential trap for new comers to the blind world. When 'back rolling' blackout blinds please consider what colour the back of your chosen blackout blind fabric will be. Most blackout blind fabrics are thermally backed and most of these have a white backing. You will see this white backing along the top when 'back rolling' blackout blinds. If the fabric 'dress side' you choose is white it will all blend together, so no problem. If the fabric you choose is darker than white, you'll have a contrast and a surprise for those not expecting that. I don't dislike this contrast myself, I think it looks quite good, and as most people's architraves are white it tends to work well. You'll need to decide what works best for you though. Most non-thermally backed blackout blind fabrics are the same colour both sides. Some thermally backed blackout blind fabrics have a matching tone backing. 'Back rolled' blackout blinds are most common if you are 'outside mounting' the blinds for some reason, or you are 'inside mounting' but the window jamb is shallow and to have the fabric hang within the jamb, you need to 'back roll'. The fabric groups below will assist you in choosing a fabric appropriate to your needs (should any of this be of concern to you); If your window jamb depth is 70mm or more then you will have enough depth to comfortably FRONT ROLL your blind if you’d prefer not to see the white backing. If your jamb depth is less than 70mm you would be better to BACK ROLL the blinds; NON THERMAL BACKED FABRICS WITH SAME COLOUR BOTH SIDES: Dawn. THERMAL BACKED FABRICS WITH WHITE BACKING: Balmoral, Chatsworth, Duo Block, Gala, Jersey, Karma, Linesque, Mantra, Metroshade, Palm Beach, Sanctuary, & Skye. THERMAL BACKED FABRICS WITH MATCHING TONE BACKING: Kew & Le Reve. View all blackout blind fabrics online using our blockout blind fabric selector.

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Tall narrow blockout blinds can be problematic and are prone to 'tracking', left or right. Which means they don't always roll up exactly true. They don't tend to roll up straight because there's no decent width to support the longer drop, when it comes to tall narrow blockout blinds. The blind may track to the side and rub or jam in the control mechanism causing damage or fraying to the fabric. When I say tall and narrow I mean in the vicinity of under 600mm wide with a full drop of around 2000-2400mm. This phenomenon isn't an exact science; it doesn't always happen, however I err on the side of caution as it happens just enough to cause issues for everyone involved. Different fabrics, at different parts of a large suppliers roll can behave differently at different times and temperatures as well. Control speed, roughness, or fluidity of the operator (you) can impact whether any size blockout blind tracks or not. Please note, these potential issues apply to all roller blind types, not just blockout blind fabrics. So, what are the options? I encourage people consider either timber venetians, PVC venetians, or 25mm aluminium venetians for the tall narrow windows around the home, instead of blockout blinds. Shutters can look really smart, as well, in tall narrow spaces, however they are more expensive than blinds. If you insist on tall narrow blockout blinds we'll make them for you however please be aware of the potential issues . Any blockout blinds under 600mm wide at a full height drop do not come with a warranty. With care they may behave and sometimes a little guidance from you when they deviate off track can help 'train' the fabric to roll true more of the time. 'Train' the fabric by carefully holding the edge of the fabric and keeping it square as you roll the blockout blind back up. Do this by looking at the edge of the rolled up fabric as it wraps around the tube at the top.

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If 'inside fitting' standard blackout blinds there will be a light gap on both sides. These gaps are required as there is componentry and brackets which sit outside the outside edge of the blackout blind fabric. The gaps measure approximately 17mm on the control chain side of the blind and 15mm on the idle end (opposite side) of the blackout blind. Our gaps are some of the narrowest in the industry. If the light gaps on the sides of your blackout blinds are going to be an issue for you please read FAQ: 'How do I further reduce the light gaps on the side of blackout blinds?'

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Not really however I'll expand on that so you can make the right decision for you. Generally louvre windows are there as a good way to allow air to enter and exit a room; to provide airflow. If your blockout blind (or any other roller type blind) is down, while the louvres are open, it will blow and suck into the louvres and may cause damage or stretching to the fabric over time. Your warranty won't cover damage caused by using blockout blinds in conjunction with louvre windows in this way. Another factor that often comes into play with louvre windows is that the blind covering it may well fall into the 'tall narrow' blockout blinds category, which in itself is problematic. Please see the FAQ entitled: 'Are tall narrow blockout blinds a good idea?' Sometimes the louvres windows are a small section of a much larger window space. You could stop the blockout blind short of the louvres or have it covering the whole width. If you choose to cover the whole width then when you use the blockout blinds or not and when you use the louvre windows or not needs to be thought through carefully with all this info in mind. If louvre windows are open it's best to have blockout blinds safely up and out of the way.

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Blackout blinds are made square; the fabric is cut on an expensive cutting table and blinds are all hung in a jig and tested before leaving the factory. It's next to impossible to have a bottom rail that has been put on crooked. It has always been my experience when this comment is made that the window frame isn't square. Either it's a villa where the house has moved significantly or the window frame is out of square to some degree. The top of the window isn't level, or the sides aren't vertical, or there is bowing or a high point on the window sill where the bottom rail hits first making it not sit level. I take all potential issues seriously – please send me a photo of the blind in the window frame for me to comment on. I do recommend checking window level and squareness initially though; if we come out to site or the blinds are returned to factory, by you, and it is found that the building or the window frame is the issue, and not the blackout blind, there will be a charge to cover time and expenses. TIP: If it's an 'outside fit' blackout blind and you've used the top of the architrave as a guide, assuming it is level; often they aren't level. This is an easy trap for beginners to fall into.

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Yes, we have had images or logos printed on blockout blinds before. We can print on blockout blinds, sheer/light-filtering fabrics, and sunscreen fabrics. Pretty much all fabrics we supply can be printed on however plain blockout fabrics do produce better results (DAWN, DUO BLOCK and KEW for example) Depending on the size of the blockout blind and the size of the image going on it (and whether one or more blockout blinds need to be aligned with each other) depends on how much extra fabric may or may not be needed to do this successfully. The printing machine needs to hold the fabric at two ends, so more fabric may be needed initially to print, before the blockout blind is then sized and cut to your window size requirements. Also depending on what is to be printed we need to pick your fabric base colour accordingly To do an initial quote please supply: the blockout blind size (width X drop in mm's). Or if an image is going across two or more blockout blinds, then the individual blind sizes and an indication that the image is to go across multiple blinds. Be aware that if the image is going across two blinds, there is a gap between the two adjacent blockout blinds. Also a decent resolution JPEG of the image to be printed and the image size you had envisioned on the blockout blind. (before printing the printers may request a better resolution file however we will advise you if this is necessary). Please also supply an idea of the base fabric colour you had planned, for your blockout blind

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Don't panic; this is a relatively easy fix. All is not lost. If you've already installed the blackout blind; take it back down. Carefully wiggle the ‘control end’ mechanism out of the blackout blind head tube. Wiggle the ‘idle end’ component out of the blackout blind head tube as well (this is at the opposite end to the control end mechanism). Swap these over and firmly reinstate. Voilà, your left hand control blackout blind is now a right hand control blackout blind (or vice versa). NB: Before you go showing off this neat new trick, make sure you've swapped the brackets over too (if already installed), side for side, before reinstalling the blackout blind. There you go; said it was an easy fix. Argh perhaps too easy in some cases. Here's the twist...if the blackout blind is quite large there may be a 'spring assist' mechanism attached to the 'control end' mechanism inside the head tube. You'll discover whether there is a 'spring assist' or not when you wiggle out the control end. 'Spring assist's' are either LH or RH and can't be used on the opposite side of the blackout blind. From here you have 3 options. 1: live with the control chain on the wrong side, as ordered. 2: remove the spring assist altogether (there's a small screw attaching it to the control end mechanism). While the 'spring assist' does assist the operation of larger blackout blinds, it isn't completely necessary in my experience (when saving the day on-site under these circumstances in the past). Or option 3: purchase the correct side 'spring assist' from us and reassemble your blackout blind when you've received it (approx $62+gst). You may even trial option 2 before committing to option 3, and see how you go. There is an option 4 as well actually: send the blackout blind back to us to do however this gets tricky freight and cost wise for you and with the above description I know you can successfully pull this surgical procedure off perfectly.

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You're right. The vast majority of blockout blind fabrics (with thermal backing) have a white backing. If for whatever reason you don't want or like the white backing, don't panic. There are ranges that are the same colour front and back (non-thermal backed fabrics). And there are some thermal backed blockout blind fabrics that have a 'tonal match' backing. Available blockout blind fabric ranges are listed below with their backing type. You can also view all fabric ranges online using our blockout blind fabric selector If you're likely to proceed and get blockout blinds from us, I'm happy to send your chosen fabric ranges out so you can see the fabrics in person. So you feel confident picking the colours and backing right for you NON THERMAL BACKED FABRICS WITH SAME COLOUR BOTH SIDES: Dawn THERMAL BACKED FABRICS WITH A MATCHING TONE BACKING: Kew & Le Reve THERMAL BACKED FABRICS WITH WHITE BACKING: Balmoral, Chatsworth, Duo Block, Gala, Jersey, Karma, Linesque, Mantra, Metroshade, Palm Beach, Sanctuary, & Skye

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All our blackout blind fabrics are completely 'blockout', in that no light passes through the fabric itself; All the fabrics we provide are from reputable NZ based fabric suppliers and are fabrics proven to last in our harsher UV conditions; It is important to note that you do have light gaps down the sides of blackout blinds when mounted inside your window frames; See the FAQ entitled: 'How wide are the light gaps on the sides of your blackout blinds?' for more info on that aspect The most 'simple' blackout blind fabric is DAWN; Dawn is the most economical blackout blind fabric we offer All our blackout blinds use Acmeda componentry only; When I say componentry, that's all the important bits that make up blackout blinds, other than the fabric, and make it operate smoothly, and without causing visible flaws in the fabric; That's the head tube, control end mechanism, control chain, idle end, and bottom-rails; After 7 years extensive experience, repairing all brands of blackout blinds across the market, i only spec Acmeda componentry on our blinds If by 'simple' you mean cheap, we don't do cheap; There is plenty of cheap crap in the blind industry; time and time again i see it costing people more in the long run; We're very well priced compared with retail brands and often our quality is superior too

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Blockout blind fabrics, from range to range, have differing fabric thicknesses. Generally speaking the thickness of the fabric doesn't effect performance or quality as long as you're buying from reputable fabric suppliers (all our fabrics are sourced from reputable NZ based fabric suppliers). I have seen and felt generic Chinese fabrics in the market which scare me; feeling so thin I could imagine them ripping and creasing if handled roughly. These very cheap end fabrics don't have the coatings present to support longevity either. TIP 1: insist on fabrics from reputable fabric suppliers (TEXSTYLE, SHAW, LOUVOLITE) to avoid the common pitfalls you get with cheap fabrics: fading, easily damaged, non eco-friendly practices, fraying edges, etc. Companies that use cheap fabrics also use cheap componentry and cheaper methods and equipment to handle and cut fabrics – all these aspects lead to issues relating to the longevity of your blockout blinds. With discussion around the cheap and nasty end of the market out of the way; does fabric thickness dictate performance and quality? Not really. Some fabrics are thinner as they don't have thermal backing. Some fabrics are naturally thicker as they are designed with more texture and visible weave, as opposed to more plain fabrics. Fabrics without thermal backing are more economical as there is less involved in their manufacture. Textured, and fabrics with patterns are generally more expensive as there is simply more involvement in their production. Thermal backed fabrics don't give you more thermal performance – fabric thicknesses range from 0.29 to 0.72mm thick (all under a millimetre!). Suppliers don't give 'R values' (thermal resistance) for blockout blind fabrics like you get for cellular type blinds or home building insulation materials, as you can't really measure their thermal performance. Remember whatever fabric you choose you still have the gaps down the sides and top of blockout blinds. I will say that thermal backed fabrics tend to 'hang' better and I attribute this to the extra thickness and therefore weight they have over thinner fabrics. For all the specs and data relating to different fabrics, hover over the info icon next to the fabric range name in the blockout blind online fabric selector. I've also put fabric thickness values here for quick reference if it's important to you: Balmoral BO: 0.60mm, Duo Block: 0.43mm, Focus: 0.40mm, Gala: 0.65mm, Icon: 0.55mm, Jersey BO: 0.72mm, Kew: 0.47mm, Le Reve BO: 0.65mm, Mantra BO: 0.65mm, Metroshade BO: 0.55mm, One Block: 0.29mm, Palm Beach: 0.65mm, Sanctuary: 0.60mm, Tusk BO: 0.43mm, and Vivid Block: 0.38mm.

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Everything fades to some degree; roofing, bricks, paints, timber floors, furniture, fabrics; it all fades to some degree over time. The roller blind fabrics we offer, like all other reputable fabric suppliers in the upholstery/textiles industries, measure and test their fabrics against what is called the 'Blue scale'. Fabrics are tested in terms of 'colourfastness to light' and the scale is 1–8. 8 is extremely hard to reach; you won't find fabrics in the window coverings market that reach 8. 1 is terrible and needs to be avoided. The blind industry sits around 5–6 and this is acceptable. You won't find fabrics higher than 6 or 7. The DAWN range sits highest at 6-7 however is plain and not to everyone's taste. When I say the blind industry I mean reputable named fabric suppliers that actually formally test their fabrics. If you are shopping at the cheap end of the market you need to ask who the fabric is from and ask to see the spec sheet. If they won't divulge who their supplier is (and some don't whom I have anonymous quizzed), haven't heard of 'blue scale', or can't provide spec sheets that include things like colourfastness; these are alarm bells and in my opinion should be avoided. Or tears will follow. Cheaper blinds aren't worth it in the long run when you have to replace them in a much shorter time frame due to inferior fabrics and parts. To make blinds cheap, factories take shortcuts with materials and production handling, resulting in rubbish products. When Blinds Online Ltd started out we were cleaning and repairing all blind brands; I've seen all the shortcuts and those that the learn the expensive way that cheap costs more. In my 13 years of business (as of 2021) I have had one instance where the client reported excessive fading. This was the one time I let the client lead me into searching further afield for different fabrics that were less known. They finally choose a less known fabric out of Australia and I regrettable overlooked the much shorter warranty period on the fabric. 3 and a half years in there was excessive fading. I had no recourse with the fabric supplier, I was annoyed with the factory and myself for not checking colourfastness and warranty, however we replaced the client's full home full of blinds, however this time back using only fabrics from the main reputable NZ supported suppliers that test and standby their fabrics. SHAW, TEXSTYLE, and UNILINE are the main suppliers I use. Speaking with SHAW directly this week, they say that it is very rare that they see excessive fading issues with their fabrics; not never, but rare. When they do they stand by wholesalers and clients and will replace. Again this is very rare and from my experience, putting that one occasion above aside, this has never been an issue my business has seen. SHAW also said no colours fade faster than others; the blue scale rating is given to all colours across a particular range. The one exception is where fabrics have blue tones, which can seem to fade a little more so than all other colours. The bottom line is – any fabrics we offer here are good to go, and come from reputable suppliers that formally test their fabric ranges. If fading is a concern know that all things will fade to varying degrees but ask to see spec sheets for blue scale / colourfastness and ensure you know what you are choosing has been tested.

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My personal preference is to inside mount blockout blinds wherever possible. It's an easier approach to measuring and installation and I feel it is a tidier, less fuss, look. The blockout blind is contained within the window reveal and the visual lines of the architraves are left to speak for themselves. With that said, there are aspects other than ease of install and aesthetics to consider potentially. Inside mounted blockout blinds will have those light gaps (you may have seen) on the sides. Outside mounted roller blinds can be measured to sit on the architrave (if it's of adequate width) or on the wall above. The blockout blind is then wider to fully or partially cover the architrave; so you have better room darkening results with less light gaps (if that's important). Some may debate that the closer the fabric is to the glass the more thermally efficient the blockout blind will be. I'd remind them there are still gaps on the sides and would challenge any human body to whether it could actually pickup any thermal difference between inside and outside mounted blockout blinds. There are also practical limitations that may dictate your decision to inside or outside mount your blockout blinds. To comfortably inside mount and either 'front roll' or 'back roll' your blockout blinds you'd want a reveal depth of around 70mm or deeper. If you have shallower reveals and still want to inside mount your blockout blinds you'd need to back roll and know that the brackets and rolled up section of the blockout blind at the top would protrude from the frame a little. The back rolled fabric would still hang within the reveal this way. When faced with super shallow reveals, or as mentioned above, you want to maximise room darkening then outside mounting the blockout blinds and back rolling them may be the only option. You could read the two different installation approaches to get an idea of what you are up for. You'll find these in the INSTALLING section of this page. Outside mounting isn't hard necessarily however it is a little more challenging than inside mounting. If you are going the outside mounting (and invariably back rolling) route for your blockout blinds please also familiarise yourself with FAQ: 'Is there anything I need to be aware of when 'back rolling' blockout blinds?' And in general think about where the fabric will hang and what obstacles may be in the way (latches, handles, hinges or a cluttered windowsill full of succulents).

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I personally separate blackout blind fabrics into 'plain', 'subtle texture', and fabrics with 'texture and pattern'. Within the blackout blind 'fabric selector' there are DESIGN filters to enable you to search and view fabrics in this very way. You can also search and view blackout blind fabric ranges by FABRIC NAME. I've listed them in groups below as well. PLAIN: Dawn, Duo Block, and Kew SUBTLE TEXTURE: Gala, Jersey, Karma, Linesque, Metroshade, Palm Beach, Sanctuary, and Skye TEXTURE & PATTERN: Balmoral, Chatsworth, Le Reve, and Mantra

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The 'control end' mechanism guard, on blockout blinds, where the control chain runs through, will potentially break if people are rough in the operating of the blockout blind, or they pull the control chain on an angle it shouldn't be pulled on. TIP 1: Blockout blinds need to be operated with care. With a smooth fluid action and by pulling the control chain in line with the pulley mechanism. The control chain shouldn't rub on any other part if pulled on the correct angle. This sort of breakage can also occur if the blind is raised too enthusiastically, driving the clear plastic 'chain stopper' into the 'control end' mechanism with too much force. TIP 2: This sort of breakage is easily blamed on the kids or careless visitors if you need a quick escape route from the accusatory glare of your partner. Don't worry, it's a part that's fairly effortless to replace and fit, and relatively inexpensive at $33+gst delivered. Send me a photo of the breakage, just so we're 100% sure we're on the same page (send photo to: ryan@blindsonline.net.nz). Once you've received the replacement 'control end' mechanism, take the blockout blind down. (Or if it fell down as part of the breakage then its already down and you're one step ahead). Carefully wiggle the broken ‘control end’ mechanism out of the blockout blind head tube. You'll need to take the control chain from the old part and use with the new part. The 'control end ' guard will slide to the side once the internally visible screw is loosened adequately. Remove the control chain and refit on the new part. Refit the new 'control end'. Reinstall the blockout blind. Refit the clear 'chain stopper' on the control chain so the blockout blind stops at its lowest position and doesn't 'over-roll'. Any concerns fire me an email and I'll help you out. Good luck!

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When considering the motorisation of blackout blinds, consider: is the home under construction or completed? Will the motorised blackout blinds be part of a larger 'home automation' system or not? Do I want an electrician involved as a separate expense or not? Am I happy to recharge the blackout blind battery motors from time to time or not really? Do I have the budget to motorise my blackout blinds? Do I perhaps want to retrofit motorisation later after the blackout blinds are installed? The following paragraphs expand on most of these general considerations (the last two questions are covered in later FAQ's)... Is the house construction finished or an existing home? If yes, then battery operated blackout blinds are probably best as this approach avoids electricians and cutting into walls to route wires/power to the window jambs needing motorised blackout blinds. Battery operated blackout blinds are a stand alone solution that can mount straight into existing windows. They look just like a normal blackout blind with the motor neatly housed inside the blackout blind roller tube at the top of the blind. You control the blackout blind by remote control and from time to time recharge the motor with a plug-in charger cable (supplied). An optional extra to this battery operated approach is a wifi hub, which gives you the ability to control the blackout blinds via an app on your smart phone from anywhere in the house, before leaving work, or from overseas on holiday. With a wifi hub you can also set favourite blind height levels and preset timers. The remote isn’t needed if a wifi hub is installed however I highly recommend having one anyway; the remote is just handier to reach for sometimes within a room when perhaps your smart device isn't. And perhaps not everyone that will be controlling the blinds will have a smart device set up to do so. Remotes are a relatively inexpensive portion of the larger motorisation spend. Under construction or major renovation? If you were thinking about blackout blind motorisation at the house planning or construction stages, then having your electrician route cables to window jambs isn't such a big deal. While your home is still timber framing without wall linings, you could consider hard wiring your blackout blinds instead of battery operated blinds. This approach is more commonly done if you are building in a larger ‘home automation’ system where the blackout blinds are only one aspect of the items you will be automating. Other advantages of hard wiring blackout blinds is that it does away with needing to manually recharge your blackout blind motors, from time to time (you simply plug a charger cable into the blackout blind in situ, so not too hard). Hard wired motors can offer more power which may be desirable if there are a lot of larger blackout blinds involved. Hard wired blackout blinds may also be slightly quieter, however most people don’t really notice the difference unless it's pointed out to them. Hard wired blackout blinds are controlled via a ‘home automation’ system (by others) or can be a stand alone solution using a remote control.

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As explained in FAQ: 'What to contemplate when motorising blockout roller blinds...', there are two different ways (generally speaking) to approach roller blind motorisation. By either using 'hard wired' motors (wired directly into your home's power), or by using 'battery operated' motors (wire free). Both ways have their pros and cons to consider, which I'm here to assist you with. There are also plenty of rubbish blind motors available out there so please do your due diligence carefully. While I do have access to Somfy motors, I like and generally use Acmeda blind motors BATTERY OPERATED MOTOR COSTS: Ok, let's look at the costs associated with the 'battery operated' approach first. Whether you have one blind, or whether you have a house full of roller blinds to motorise, there are some basic items you'll need, i.e.; a battery charger to charge the blind motors, when required, and a 15 channel remote control (controls up to 15 blinds). Allow $132 total for these two items. If you only have one blind and no plans to motorise more in the future, you could just get a 1 channel remote, however the price difference is very minimal. For the per blind costs; Add $340 per 1.1nm blind motor. This covers all blind sizes up 5m2. For blinds between 5m2 and 8m2 a larger motor is required. Allow $395 per 2.0nm blind motor. There is an even bigger 3.0nm blind motor available too if needed, however seldom required ($450)(8–12m2, usually used when butting two large blinds and using one motor to raise and lower them both together). If you want the ability to control your blinds via a smartphone or smart device, or from anywhere add $285 for a WIFI HUB (e.g.; you could close your home's blinds before leaving work, during those cold dark months of the year, or operate them from the other side of the world, to create the illusion you are home, or just to show-off to the neighbours). NB: For practicality based reasons I still recommend getting a remote even if you are getting a wifi hub. If we're installing for you factor in about $12 extra per blind which covers the setup and programming of motorised blinds. If your home is really large or there are roller blinds quite a way from the wifi hub you may want a USB Repeater to extend the wifi hub signal; $105. Use these costs for budgeting purposes only. Depending on your blinds layout and needs there may be certain savings at times, i.e.; one motor might do two butting blinds where appropriate. There are considerations I can assist with to get the right solution for you, based on what your needs and budget are. NB: The 1.1nm motor runs at a higher RPM (goes up and down faster) than the 2.0nm and 3.0nm motors, so if having all your blinds running at the same speed is important to you then budget to use the larger motors throughout. HARD WIRED MOTOR COSTS. Allow $230 per hard wired blind motor irrespective of blind size. All the other bits and pieces you require or may want are as above. i.e.; 1 channel remote: $76. 15 channel remote: $96. *Battery charger not needed. Wifi hub: $285. USB Repeater: $105. Add $12 per blind extra over normal blind installation charges. And don't forget to factor in your electrician's time and expenses in getting wiring to the windows, and to do the final termination, i.e.; connecting the blind motor leads to the mains power. The above pricing doesn't include the blinds themselves or SERVICE. Any further questions or concerns regarding the motorisation of your roller blinds please just ask.

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Generally speaking yes and no. Or rather, there are factors to consider first. Not all blind motors are compatible with all blackout blind tube extrusions and sizes. And different manufacturers use different deductions when making blinds. This means when taking the manual chain controls out of an existing blackout blind, to retrofit a motor, the finished blackout blind, with motor, width may be greater or smaller than the original blackout blind. ie: the blackout blind may no longer be a good fit for your window. Motors need to be a good fit with roller tube extensions or all manner of issues may arise: noise, vibration, over heating, etc. Compatibility between brackets and motor fittings need to be considered as well. If we were making your blackout blinds and we were the ones retrofitting or supplying motors at a later date (as long as that later date isn't too far in the future where developments in hardware or motors may have been introduced) then yes we could retrofit motors successfully. If you already have blackout blinds by others and want us to potentially retrofit battery operated motors I'd need photos and measurements of some of the existing blackout blind parts to make checks around compatibility (I'd guide us through that process).

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From my blind repair days and experience I cannot emphasise enough the importance of buying lasting quality blinds from the outset. While it may seem more expensive to start with, you save time, energy, and money in the long run. In saying that I do get that the budget just doesn't stretch to where you want it sometimes. While the below list won't apply to everyone's initial quote and situation, some of it might, and it may get you thinking about what parts of the plan you could change to reduce the quote price, if required. MOTORISED BLINDS: Do you have motorised blockout blinds; do you need them to be motorised in all the rooms you have requested? Perhaps you can live with some of them as manual control instead. Battery operated motorisation can be retrofitted later, as well (in most instances) so while there are some extra charges for multiple trips to site etc, you could consider motorising your blockout blinds further down the track. DUAL BLINDS: Very roughly speaking (depends on fabric choices) having dual blinds (double blinds) everywhere doubles your overall quote. With dual blinds you have two blinds in each window instead of one. Do you need dual blinds everywhere or are there rooms or windows where just the sunscreen or just the blockout blind alone will suffice? FABRIC CHOICE: This can make a small or large difference in quote price, depending on what blockout blind fabric you chose initially, the fabric you may want to switch to, and how many blockout blinds are involved. See the FAQ: 'How are different blockout blind fabrics priced, how do they compare price and quality wise to each other?' to help navigate the fabric choices and their relative cost to each other. PROJECT IN STAGES: Perhaps your orders, manufacture and installation can be planned in stages and spread across a few months. This would add to the installation cost in terms of extra visits to site however this may help spread your overall cost over a longer period. I am also open to spreading your payments (for larger jobs) over a month or two. We'd agree on a plan which you would manage payments wise, yourself (one invoice still). COMPONENTRY & EXTRAS: Do you have any pelmets or fancy extras on the quote you may be able to do without? Also, stainless steel control chains are more per blind (15+gst) than plastic control chains. Have you selected any optional extras that may be adding up, that you don't need. DIY VS SERVICE: Depending on your skills, capabilities, and wants, you may consider moving forward as a DIY client instead of having us install for you. There are some jobs (larger and more involved) where I would still recommend we measure and install for you. On the more involved jobs, the installation portion is money well spent making sure everything is as it should be. Hopefully some of these thoughts and factors pertaining to costs, above, relate to and are helpful toward your project and needs. I'm always here to take a specific look at your project and offer suggestions I see, as well. Let me know what or how you may want to relook at your project knowing what factors above can dictate quote price.

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Whether you need to paint your window reveals, adjust the brackets, or just want to take your blackout blinds away on holiday with you; it's relatively easy to take them down, safely (once you know how). First take a look at the non-control chain end of the blackout blind (the idle end). You’ll see a notched wheel disk thingy. Aha, now the secret's out. Support the blackout blind, about midway, with one hand, while spinning the wheel counter-clockwise with the other hand. The spinning of the wheel will retract the pin in the idle end and the blind will lower down out of the idle end bracket. As you lower the idle end free of the bracket you will be able to move the blackout blind away from the control end bracket as well. Your blackout blind is now free however please safely stow to ensure it's well-being (all blinds are like children to me). Good luck, however if you're still unsure please get in touch.

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Quality blockout blind ‘control chains’, like ours, don’t break. You’d be using excessive force to break one. I’ve written this FAQ for those who forgot to mention the window was really high and hard to reach, or that the blind was in a stairwell, or where a long reach over a kitchen bench or office desk is required, and the ‘control chain’ you got is too short to comfortably operate your blind. I must say on the very rare occasion it’s a factory error; the human making your blind in the factory was having a bad day the same day as the human running quality control was having a bad day. I can think of three occasions in 13 years so it’s not likely, however possible. However we got into this situation the required procedure for rectifying a ’too short control chain’ is relatively simple. Relative to what I’m not sure however ‘relatively simple’ nonetheless. STEP 1: Tell me what name the order was under and the required ‘control chain’ length you need; this is the measurement from the top of the blind to the bottom looped part of the ‘control chain’, making sure you can comfortable grip and operate the ‘control chain’. We use ‘continuous chain’ loops as much as possible because they look better, are stronger, and easier to install. These come in the following set lengths: 250, 500, 750, 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, 2000, 2250, 2500, 2750, and 3000mm. If you need a ‘control chain’ over 3000mm (3m), or you need some other exact length we don’t offer above, for some reason I can’t think of, then we can make a custom length however we use a ‘chain joiner’ to achieve this. STEP 2: Once you have received the new ‘control chain’, ready your roller blind for its medical procedure by taking it down out of the window. Any issues taking your blind out of its brackets, please see FAQ: ‘How do I take my blockout blinds back down; Is there a trick to it?’. When ready carefully wiggle the ‘control chain mechanism’ out of the blockout blind’s head tube. The 'control chain mechanism guard’ will slide to the side once the internally visible screw is loosened adequately. Remove the existing ‘control chain’ and refit the new correct length ‘control chain’. NB: If you have a ‘control chain’ with a ‘chain joiner’ rather than a ‘continuous chain’ you will need to get strategic about the placement of the ‘chain joiner’. With the blockout blind rolled up and for FRONT ROLLING blinds place the ‘chain joiner’ just outside the ‘control chain mechanism’ by about 40mm on the drop of chain closest the room. If your blind is BACK ROLLING then the ‘chain joiner’ needs to be just south (40mm) of the ‘control chain mechanism’ on the chain drop closest the window. If that all sounds silly put it where you like and you’ll soon see why it’s important. Slide the guard back and fasten the screw. Wiggle the 'control end mechanism’ snuggly back from where you found it, at the same orientation as it was in the tube. Reinstall the blockout blind. Refit the clear 'chain stopper' from the original control chain so the blockout blind stops at its lowest position and doesn't 'over-roll' and you should be laughing joyously. Any concerns fire me an email with a photo of where you got to and I'll help you out. Good luck!

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Blackout blind samples can be sent out. So you can view them in your home, take your time, and get others opinions if needed. We do ask that you narrow down the ranges you request and that you please return them once you've finished. We actively recycle samples on to the next client, and there is a significant expense in making them. For returns, most samples fit neatly in a $3.5 NZ Post bag, or at most a $7 post bag. The upside of having blind samples sent out is you don't have to visit a showroom and you can take your own time with them. Before requesting blackout blind samples I do encourage people get quotes first to ensure we and the requested fabrics sit within your budget range. Use the blackout blind online fabric selector to narrow down the specific ranges you want to request. As a suggestion, 2 to 4 ranges can be easily sent out and returned. If you are within Auckland and we are conducting a check measure/consult visit, before proceeding with manufacture, then my installers are setup with most blackout blind samples for you to view at home while they measure.

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Like all fabrics across different industries it really depends on what the stain is, as to what level of success you will have in completely removing it. The more basic blockout blind fabrics are easier to spot clean than ones with more intricate weaves. All blind fabric suppliers have the following to say with regard to general dusting or spot cleaning: Surface dust or dirt should be removed with a duster, wet wipe, or soft lint free cloth. Wipe clean with warm soapy water, a mild detergent, and a damp cloth. Dry with a clean lint free cloth. Never use abrasive products like 'JIF', solvents, or industrial or bleach based cleaners. Do not roll the blockout blind fabric up while it is still damp. Sometimes gently rubbing a pencil eraser over some marks can work if the mark did not come off with wet wipes or a damp cloth.

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You'd think by the term 'thermal' that thermal backed blackout blind fabrics would have better thermal properties. It's an industry term and one that I find misleading. There is no difference in terms of thermal efficiency between the thermal and non-thermal blackout blind fabrics. Blackout blind fabric suppliers don't offer R-values between ranges as fabrics are all between 0.29 to 0.72mm thick. And with gaps down the sides and top of blackout blinds any R-value would be meaningless. Having a blackout blind is better than no blind at all though Thermal aspects aside, thermal backed fabrics do tend to 'hang' and 'look' better than non-thermal backed fabrics which tend to be 'stiffer' looking. Thermal backed fabrics tend to have a little more 'weight' and a 'softer' look. You can search by THERMAL or NON THERMAL in the blackout blind online fabric selector under 'BACKING TYPE'. If creating the most thermally efficient home, you can, is at the forefront of your quest to find the ultimate blind for your needs then honeycomb blinds are superior to all (including curtains), thermally

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Yes, we can supply child safe devices to keep control chains safer from toddlers. These are also know as 'chain tidies'. They are a clear plastic clip that the control chain runs through. It is positioned at the bottom looped part of the control chain and screwed to the window reveal. As well as keeping control chains safer from toddlers, chain tidies have other benefits like keeping the control chain slightly tensioned, which may look better, aesthetically, to some people. Chain safe devices also prevent careless operators dragging the chain across the edge of the blockout blind fabric, and keep chains from being caught in closing doors. I'm personally not a fan of chain tidies; they are an extra cost and do in some instances reduce the ability to reach and operate the control chain, depending on where the blockout blind is and how easy it is to reach or not. Where I do feel they are a good idea is where the chain is near an opening door, either hinged or sliding. We don't supply chain safe devices as standard; you'll need to ask for them if you feel they are required. The extra cost for chain safe devices is $12.50+gst (DIY) and $15.50+gst (SERVICE). It is best to specify whether you need these at time of quote/order; if they are ordered after installation things get problematic. It's not just a matter of adding the chain safe to an existing blind; the control chain needs to be swapped out as well to be compatible with the chain safe device. Think about whether you really need/want them and if buying for toddler type reasons think about which windows will actually be within reach of toddlers. Bear in mind that control chains are *generally, approximately 75% of the blind drop. *Unless the drop is short, ie: 300-500mm, where we'll make the control chain longer (as short chains are a pain to use). And if the blockout blind is a full drop like 2200mm (eg: sliding and bifold doors) we'd make the control chain around 1200mm, which is more than adequate to operate but safer from most roving and exploratory humans of the small and curious type.

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Blackout blind control chains are *generally, approximately 75% of the blind drop. *Unless the blind drop is short, like 300-500mm, where we'd make the control chain longer (because control chains that are too short are a pain to use). If the blackout blind is a full drop like around 2200mm (eg: sliding and bifold doors) we'd make the control chain around 1200mm, which is more than adequate to operate. For the most part you don't need to specify control chain lengths; we default to this tried and tested approach. The exceptions to the rule (because there are always exceptions aren't there!) are when the window is unusually high like in a stairwell, or in a commercial space, or when you have to reach far across something like a kitchen bench. In these instances please advise how long you'd like your control chains (DIY). If we are measuring for you, the installer will be specifying to me, any longer than normal control chain requirements. However it doesn't hurt to discuss any windows you have concerns about, with the installer, while they are onsite measuring (SERVICE).

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The light gaps on the sides of our inside mounted blockout blinds are 17mm on the control chain side and 15mm on the other side. If required, these light gaps can be further reduced by introducing 'Aluminium Light-Guards'. These are L-shaped aluminium strips that adhere to the window reveal, behind where the blockout blind fabric hangs, and which block the light gaps on the sides of your blinds. They are only used with 'inside mounted' blinds and should be measured to fit the full drop, inside of the window reveal. To attach the light-guards to the reveal, use the double sided tape that has been pre-attached to the shorter 15mm side. Remove the backing and firmly secure the light-guards in place. Make sure the light-guard runs vertical and behind where the fabric and bottom rail will travel. The longer 35mm side will cover the blockout blind light gaps and will overlap the back of the fabric by approximately 18mm for good light blocking results. Aluminium Light-Guards are available in five colours: Black Ink, Silver, Sahara (Tan Brown), White, Cottage White (Cream), and Chocolate. Made of aluminium these light-guards are robust and won't bend over time. They have a colour co-ordinated end-cap at the top end of the aluminium strip so there is no risk of damage to your blinds. When choosing your light-guard colour ensure you take into account you will see these strips when the blockout blind is pulled up. The cost is $45 per metre of blind drop (i.e.; you get two light-guard strips per blind however it's based on the blind drop not the total metreage of light-guard strips provided)(plus freight). While this video isn't an exact illustration of the product we supply it does show how the light-guards will work on the sides of your blockout blinds. Light-guards don't include the strip along the top of the blind, as per the video; the two side light-guards are available. If you need a valance or pelmet along the top as well we can discuss this separately.

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All blackout blind fabrics and colours can be viewed online at the BLACKOUT BLIND FABRIC SELECTOR page. If the quote looks OK we can send out physical samples for you to view in your home before committing to anything. Or if you want to view fabrics and completed blackout blinds in a showroom, we have two set up as below... PENROSE, AUCKLAND SHOWROOM: It is essential to phone ahead and make a time for the Penrose showroom. This will ensure someone will be there to let you in and show you the product. Please call 0508 274 888 to make an appointment. Generally speaking someone is there from 9am to 4:30pm, Monday to Friday, however it is best to book in to avoid turning up to a closed showroom. Santa Fe Showroom, Unit 4, 761 Great South Rd, Penrose, Auckland. Please advise them Ryan at Blinds Online Ltd sent you. MT MAUNGANUI SHOWROOM: The Mt Maunganui showroom is manned five days a week. No appointment necessary here: Santa Fe Showroom, 142 Newton St, Mt Maunganui. Weekdays only (8:30am–4:45pm). Let me know how you go and how I can assist next. Please advise them Ryan at Blinds Online Ltd sent you.

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Everyone's bathroom is different so after taking the following into account you're probably in the best position to decide whether blockout blinds are suitable for you and your bathroom. The key thing is adequate ventilation; a good amount of air movement, often, to ensure the bathroom and the blinds dry out properly, if they do get wet. The blockout blind fabrics and components can get wet however like most things they want a chance to dry out too. I'd probably favour the more basic and 'wipe-downable' fabric ranges like DUO BLOCK, FOCUS and VIBE to play it safe; and avoid the more intricate fabrics where the weave may tend to trap the moisture in. If things stay moist too long, and not allowed to dry out, mould will form over time, like with anything else. If you feel excess moisture is going to be an issue in your bathroom you may be safer considering either PVC Shutters or PVC Venetian blinds instead of blockout roller blinds. That said, I do have plenty of clients with blockout blinds in their bathrooms, with no issue.

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If you find one of your roller blind's straight and true in the window jamb however it doesn't roll up straight onto the tube at the top; or bunches at one of the ends; please read on... First of all it's important to say that our all our roller blinds are made straight and square; and that they are jigged and tested; all on very expensive state of the art equipment; Roller blinds are rolled up and down numerous times throughout their manufacture and testing, and undergo strict QC checks (quality control) to ensure they are all behaving as they should before leaving the factory; That's not to say what you are experiencing can't happen; The industry term for this phenomenon is 'tracking'; It can start to occur through operator error, or it can occur after transit and handling, where the fabric may compress or shift slightly, before installation; Or your jamb may not be level across the top; If you are unlucky enough to have a 'tracking' issue straight-out-of-the box, don't panic, there is remedy for these misbehaving roller blinds; 'Tracking' can occur with any roller blind but has become a little more prevalent with the introduction of heavier weave fabrics and fabrics with foam backing; Again, all blinds are tested prior to despatch; One of the QC criteria required for sign off, is the checking and adjusting for any 'tracking'; The standard industry procedure is to apply a section of masking tape to the exposed head tube in the correct location to eliminate fabric 'tracking'; STEP 1: Check the jamb where the blind brackets are mounted is level; the brackets need to be level with each other so the blind is level and thus rolls up and down true; STEP 2: The next on-site corrective step would be to drop the blind to its down position; then raise it slowly and steadily, while guiding the fabric edge with your other hand so it rolls up evenly onto the tube both sides; This can be easier, for the non-initiated, with someone else’s help; especially with larger blinds; Raise the blind 3-4 times doing this to 're-train' the fabric's path; If you've got lucky this will work for you; If not or if the 'tracking' starts again move on to the step below; STEP 3: Observe the blind in its rolled up position; Does it 'track' (bunch) to the left or right-hand end of the blind; With that knowledge safely in mind, remove the chain stoppers on the control chain and carefully lower the blind to expose the tube at the top; If the blind is 'tracking' to the LEFT place a 50mm strip of masking tape on the exposed tube near the RIGHT end of the blind; If the blind is 'tracking' to the RIGHT, place the masking tape near the LEFT end; Once you've applied the 50mm strip of masking tape, re-check the roller blind by rolling it up; You may need a little more tape, or a little less tape, depending on the result you are now getting; Make further adjustments if needed and test until the blind is running straight and the bottom rail is horizontal throughout the roller blind's travel; You may need patience and perseverance, or you may strike a win first time; When you have a satisfactory outcome, re-apply the chain stoppers (it is important to use and set chain stoppers correctly so your roller blind doesn't roll down too far exposing the tube; it is those extra rolls of fabric that help keep pressure on the fabric where it is stuck to the tube); CORRECT BLIND OPERATION: It's important to operate roller blinds correctly to avoid unnecessary damage and to avoid 'tracking'; When raising and lowering a roller blind avoid 'steering' the control chain and thus potentially the blind fabric itself to one side or the other; You should not be rubbing the control chain over the edge of the fabric either; this will cause the fabric edges to fray over time and may have led to the blind 'tracking' initially; Do not be fast, forceful, or sudden in grabbing or letting go of the roller blind when operating it; too much 'shock' load may cause the fabric to not roll up evenly; Roller blinds should be operated with the control chain held straight below or slightly out toward you but always in line with the control chain mechanism; If your actual window jambs aren't level this can also lead to 'tracking' however in this case you are better to correct the blind's brackets so the blind is level before adjusting for 'tracking', if it is still present; If you continue to experiencing issues, let me know, you may need a visit from a blind technician; if we have one in your area; Or you can return the blinds (at your cost) to the factory, for us to test and adjust, free of charge, if you preferred, however the return to us option doesn't guarantee adjustment won't still be necessary on-site; for the reasons explained above; It is best to sort any 'tracking' issues early on before this potentially leads to possible damage like frayed fabric edges; Please let me know how you get on with any of this; i would like to know you and your blinds are on good terms with each other

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Most blockout blinds we provide are for people inside mounting them. We provide screws for inside mounted blinds going into timber only. If you are outside mounting into the architrave the screws we provide are probably fine for most circumstances however please use your judgement and also pre-drill some pilot holes to reduce the risk of the screw splitting your architrave. If you are outside mounting to the wall above the architrave we don’t provide screws for this. You’ll need to get something suitable from the hardware store depending on your particular wall substrate. Often there will be a solid timber lintel above the window so you can use wood screws however use ones long enough to go through the gib and fix firmly into the timber. Sometimes you won't have solid timber behind gib; you will have to consider and purchase the best wall anchor or wall plug for your situation. I prefer to use WallMate by Ramset when outside mounting into GIB with a cavity behind it. In more commercial environments or the odd home you may be inside or outside fitting into aluminium. Self tapping screws from the hardware store are best here. We don't provide screws for screwing into aluminium.

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Please know that we don’t supply screws for any outside fitted blinds. There isn't one screw type or securing system suitable for all substrates and situations so it is best to source these yourself. You 'probably' have a solid timber lintel above your window behind the wall substrate however sometimes I've found this isn't the case at the slightly wider than the window blind width where the brackets need to go. Depending on exactly where the brackets will go there may be a cavity so something like a Ramset 'WallMate' or Ramset 'SpringToggle' GIB anchor may be suitable. I've used both these products however prefer the former for most 'fixing to GIB with cavity behind' type situations. The latter I find fiddly to use and requires a much larger hole drilled in the wall. Best to talk to someone knowledgeable at Mitre 10, or similar, about your specific substrate and situation. If there is solid timber behind where the brackets are going then a wood screw similar to what we provide for inside fitted blinds but longer will suffice. A wood screw long enough to go through the GIB and deep enough to adequately bite into the solid timber behind. As long as however you mount those brackets they are solid and are going to hold your blind's weight while stationary and while in use, i.e; with the extra force exerted by pulling on the blind's control chain